January 2014 is fast approaching, we are all looking forward to the brand new Haibike Gen 2 models coming soon. The 2014 Haibike xDuro AMT PRO 27.5 being one of the exciting new models. The demand for us has been massive on this XC/ all mountain/ free ride/trail centre eBike. As the largest UK Haibike Dealer we will eb the first to get our hands on this exciting Gen 2 model. So why buy this new Haibike xDuro AMT PRO model? Here's a quick overview: With 150 mm travel and the Bosch performance motor, the Haibike xDuro AMT Pro is your ultimate all mountain bike! Up lifts are made redundant with the new 2014 xDuro AMT Pro 2nd Generation model. The finish on this German built eBike is just fantastic, you have to see it in real life. The pictures just don't do it justice! I'm sure this model is going to go down well. Its the bigger brother to the FS AMT 26 that we currently have in stock and is by far one of the most popular models in the range. This more lightweight model has some all new features. The frame geometry is totally re-designed. It features 150mm travel front and rear and benefits from the new 650B / 27.5" wheel size. This new wheel is designed with the benefits of the bigger 29" in wheel in mind, so it rolls fast and flows over bumps easier, but uses the 26" wheel characteristics for good manoeuvrability through tight single track areas. Its perfect for the serious mountain biker from full on all mountain trials to local bike parks. The spec of this bike is top end. You have Crank Brothers Iodine 2 wheelset, Sram XX1 / X01 drive train and, of course, completely newly developed suspension of the Haibike Sprocket Equalizing System (SES). The bike also features a Fox's 34 Talas forks with adjustable travel from 120mm to 150mm on the fly and Fox Kashima coated CTD rear shock. Avid's X.0 trail brakes on big uprated rotors supply more than enough stopping power in any condition. Couple this with Haibike's newly developed frame geometry and you have an eBike you can really put through its paces. Its un-stoppable! Read More about the S.E.S System in my blog page. The new Haibike Gen 2 bikes also feature the latest Bosch Performance crank drive motor, so you can be sure its fitted with the latest kit and set up for optimum performance. Haibike are the only manufacturer to mount the motor with the swing arm pivot bolt in a raised position ensuring the rear end is much shorter than any other eMTB. This ensures a shorter wheelbase for the ultimate control and manoeuvrability off road. They fix the chain line with their new S.E.S. (Sprocket Equalizing System). This raises the chain off the front sprocket up to the same level as the swing arm pivot point so the chain is not affected by the rear end moving up and down over bumps. To find out more about this please read some of our Bosch E-Bike information articles in our blog. This eBike is 'Bosch Tuning Dongle' compatible. So you can now have no speed limits; creating an un-stoppable machine! Read the full specification / reviews / pictures of the Haibike 2014 xDuro AMT Pro If you would like further information or to place a deposit on the stock arriving please call us on 01252 279 279 (ask for Martin). These models are already in short supply. Bosch have announced a supply issue due to the demand. Reserve yours today!
Many people ask what service and maintenance is required to run an Electric bike (eBike). Here is some basic information and general tips to keep your eBike running like a dream! Just like any regular cycle, your eBike is going to need routine maintenance; however don't be put off by the electrical part of this as generally it will require little maintenance. Many non-eBikers believe electric bikes are riddled with maintenance issues, but this is simply not true. If you, the user, take the basic steps to keep your bike running it will not require much more than a normal bike. After all if you treat your eBike well it will treat you well in return. Most dealers will provide a full set up on the bike, which is important as the eBike needs to be set up correctly in the first place to function well. Some dealers also offer another free service once the eBike has bedded in. This is useful and well worth taking advantage of as it can take a few miles for new bolts to bed in, cables to stretch etc. By taking it back after the bedding in period you can have it all re-tightened, and the brakes and gears checked etc. This is also a good time to change that awfully uncomfortable saddle, position the bars slightly differently and make any other small changes to provide a more comfortable ride. eBike Maintenance To get the longest life possible out of your eBike you can take some simple steps to maintain it yourself, without regular trips to the dealer. Here are some general cycle tips to help you along – Keep your eBike clean. If possible clean it after each ride with bike specific cleaners. Don't use a jet wash or alike as this can drive out grease lubricating the bearings, it will also compress water into the internals which in turn will corrode essential components. If using a high powered hose be careful to not jet water in too close to the hubs, bottom bracket, headset or anywhere else that is normally greased throughout. Some bike shine products can leave a layer of protection over the paintwork, helping keep your eBike looking like new for longer. Be careful not to get this stuff close to any braking surfaces though! Use a decent chain oil to keep the chain lubricated after cleaning, make sure it isn't left dry. Wet lube in the winter and dry lube in the summer. (Wet lube stays wet, dry lube dries). You can lube the cables with light spray oil, preferably one that dries and leaves a PTFE layer. If using lubricant that stays wet, on your next outing dust can stick to this causing more problems and can cause cable to seize. (With PTFE it will dry but leave a lubricating layer). When the bike is not in use try to keep it in a dry place out of the elements. - Keep the tyres properly inflated. This will prevent uneven tyre wear. It will also make your life easier as the bike will roll with less resistance. In turn the motor is working less and the range is extended. This can make more of a difference than you may think. (Tyre pressures are always printed on the side of your tyre). Motor & Battery Maintenance Most motors these days are either sealed or not serviceable, therefore if it did go wrong it would be replaced rather than repaired, so little maintenance here. It’s the same with the batteries; however you can take steps to extend the life of your battery. For example keeping it topped up, not leaving it to discharge for extended periods of time, not leaving it in the blazing hot sun for long periods and also not leaving it out in the freezing cold for many months if it is not being used. Most battery problems I come across are where people have neglected their batteries, or have left them for years and years before coming back to them expecting them to work as they did when new! With most modern Lithium cells it is better to keep the battery topped up. So even if you only go for a relatively short ten mile cycle down the road, it is healthier for the battery to be topped up after that ride as opposed to letting it run right out and charging it right back up. If the battery seems to be deteriorating, the capacity can be checked by a good dedicated eBike shop. Say for example the battery gets very cold or you leave it in the shed for an extended amount of time, it can benefit from a full conditioning cycle. To do this run the battery completely flat and charge it right back up. This should condition the battery back to state. It may be worth doing it twice to be sure. Battery packs can be made up of many cells and sometimes these cells become unbalanced. Many modern batteries keep themselves balanced correctly, with an on board BMS, (Battery Management System) however it is possible to charge the individual cells to balance them all. This should be done by a decent eBike shop correctly. Electrical Problems, what to do? If you do experience any electrical faults with your eBike you should contact the dealer you purchased the bike from. They should be experienced to help you. If you are not experienced, do not take any of the electrics apart. Do not remove any plastic covers as you could damage the internals and also invalidate warranties; this should be done by an eBike technician. If you do decide to ‘fiddle’ make sure to have a magnetic tray or some way of containing bolts etc. as bits may drop out as you open the case. It’s always good to lay parts out in the order you removed them; this way you will have a rough idea of how it all goes back together. Before returning to the dealer you may want to check the electrical connectors: it could be a really simple problem. Say you hit a hard bump in the road and the power cuts off, check the battery is securely in place as it may have moved slightly on the connector causing a momentary loss of connection. You can also make sure all contacts are clean and corrosion free. Many modern eBikes have on board diagnostics to tell the dealer what’s going on in the event of a problem. Some more simple systems are a case of subtraction, where each component is tested until the faulty component is diagnosed. Sometimes it’s as simple as turning the eBike off and back on. Doing this will reset the controller and could get you going again. Be wary however, that by resetting, it implies there was a problem and you should still have it checked out by an eBike technician. Some eBikes are more reliable than others and sometimes you just get unlucky; do what you can to look after your pride and joy, and you will enjoy many years of happy eBiking. Simply put: An eBike really shouldn't require any more maintenance than a normal push bike, just as long as you treat it correctly. Why not read the Electric Bike Buyers Guide? Also worth checking out the Electric Bike Running Costs Guide?
So we will soon see the brand new Gen 2 Haibikes coming to UK shores in Jan 2014. Very exciting times for us at e-bikeshop. One model in particular is the Haibike xDuro NDURO RX 26 2014. As the biggest selling Haibike dealer in the UK we have already started taking deposits on this free ride/enduro/downhill enduro machine. Below is a quick overview / review of the new 2014 Haibike xDuro NDURO RX 26. With 180 mm travel and the Bosch performance motor, the NDURO turns your home trails into a bike park! Up lifts are made redundant with the new XDURO NDURO RX. This machine is actually the younger brother to the NDURO PRO. This bike will pretty much handle anything you throw at it. Its perfect for the serious mountain biker from full on downhill trials to local bike parks. However the 2014 NDURO RX is still a serious trail bashing eBike but its also the ultimate boys toy! Although not quite the same spec as its bigger brother it's still the same travel and offers an exceptionally good value for money mid-high specification. You have a DT SWISS wheelset, Shimano SLX drive train and, of course, completely newly developed suspension of the Haibike Sprocket Equalizing System (SES). The bike also features a Fox's Talas 36mm forks and CTD rear shock. Shimano's SLX Ice Tech brakes on big uprated rotors supply more than enough stopping power in any condition they also disperse the heat through their special heat dispersing fins on the brake pads. Couple this with Haibike's newly developed frame geometry and you have an eBike you can really put through its paces. Its unstoppable! The new Haibike Gen 2 bikes also feature the latest Bosch Performance crank drive motor, so you can be sure it's fitted with the latest kit and setup for optimum performance. To find out more about this please read some of our Bosch information articles in our blog. Haibike are the only manufacturer to mount the motor with the swing arm pivot bolt in a raised position ensuring the rear end is much shorter than any other eMTB. This ensures a shorter wheelbase for the ultimate control and manoeuvrability off road. They fix the chain line with their new S.E.S (Sprocket Equalizing System). Which raises the chain off the front sprocket up to the same level as the swing arm pivot point so the chain is not affected by the rear end moving up and down over bumps. Read More about the S.E.S System in my blog. To read the full specification of the Haibike xDuro NDURO RX Electric Mountain Bike. If you would like further information or to place a deposit on the stock arriving please call us on 01252 279 279 (ask for Martin).
With so many different styles, models & price ranges, buying an electric bike (eBike) can be a daunting process. To help you in your search, I have put together a rough guide to help you make a decision as to which eBike will be best for you. This is the electric bike buyers guide.. Rather than overloading you with too much detail, the following words are ‘Jargon Free’ and should make sense to even the most novice of rider, it’s a simple guide to cover the important factors. There’s a lot to cover so I have broken it down into several stages: Style of Electric Bike Choose the right style of eBike to support your style of riding. The eBike market has grown massively over the past few years and with it a multitude of different styles, designs and purposes. Ranging from small wheeled folding bikes to big wheeled commuters; there is just about every style of eBike the end user could require. In order to get the right eBike you will have to think very carefully about what your needs and expectations are: If you are looking for an eBike small enough to stick in the back of the car, a folding eBike is the answer. If you are commuting to work have a look at the town/commuter eBikes out there. For dedicated off-roaders there are various styles of eMTB’s available. Commuting to work during the week but also after some light off-road at the weekends? A hybrid eBike will be right up your street (and tow-path). Many more niche styles are available; from eTrikes through to full carbon race machines - Be sure to take both style and usability into account when searching for your eBike: Whilst a folding eBike may seem like the practical choice, if you are planning on long jaunts with off-road sections it probably won’t suit your riding needs. Perhaps look into a suitable car rack instead. User’s Needs Ultimately whatever eBike you select it will need to suit your needs. You have to think about the practicalities between different eBikes. For example: You may be focusing on a small wheeled folding bike to go in the back of a car, but do not rule out the bigger wheeled non-folding eBikes; the folder may be practical to fold and store, but if the eBike is not practical in your riding style then you are less likely to ride it, and at the end of the day the ride is the most important factor. Every customer I see has different needs. Some may be less agile and need a cycle which is stable and easy to get on and off. In this instance a drop frame bike that allows more confidence when cycling, and in the event of a sudden stop allows you to get your feet down safely and quickly, would be the sensible choice. Don’t look at the bike and think ‘That looks like a ladies bike’, look at it and think about how practical it will be for you. These are ultimately the things that you can iron out whilst testing the bikes (something we will touch on later in the article) but is definitely worth considering even in the early stages of choosing your eBike. Wheel size Closely linked with the above points and vital to choosing the right eBike; ensuring you have the correct wheel size will guarantee both efficiency and enjoyment in equal parts. You should have a good idea what style of eBike you are after now, but what are the differences in wheel size and what different applications do they have? Now it may be a little early to determine size but I wanted to point this out now as size can also affect what style of eBike you are looking at buying. Really size should be one of the last things to look at but; I speak to so many people that after chatting about eBikes for just a few minutes ask – “What size do I need?”. At this point size is less important but you should consider the different wheel sizes available. In the old days there were just one or two wheel sizes available. But now as the market has moved on there are lots of different sizes to choose from. I’ll focus on just the main few without going into too much detail. 700c: This ‘big wheel’ is generally used for road work. The larger diameter physically covers more distance when rolled in a complete revolution than a smaller wheel. 700c is also featured on many trekking/hybrid bikes as they can be used both on and off road, with the main difference being the tyre choice: a hybrid tyre will have a slightly a wider body than a full road tyre, with various tread sizes and patterns to suit the riding style. 29” wheeled eMTBs (or 29ers) are also becoming more common, allowing the same rolling abilities and comfort for off-road users. 26”: Another popular size is the 26” wheel. Commonly used for mountain biking, this wheel is smaller but allows more control and less wheel flex off-road than its bigger brother. They generally feature a wider, knobbier tyre for maximum traction and grip in soggy conditions. That said, it is more common these days for manufacturers to use a 26” wheel on a town/commuter bike with a smoother road style tyre and higher tyre pressures. This allows the eBike to be more manoeuvrable with lighter steering but does not compromise rolling resistance with big bulky tyres on the road. It also ultimately lowers the centre of gravity too so may be more suitable for slightly shorter users. 20”: You will find these on many folding bikes, where the smaller wheels help to keep the overall size down. It is worth remembering that the smaller the wheel size, the less distance it will cover in one revolution, which can make for harder work on more lengthy rides. There are many other wheel sizes, but these are the most common in the eBike world. Where to set your budget? Your budget is a big factor in your hunt for an eBike. With prices easily reaching into the thousands, you should be prepared to pay a little more for an eBike than a normal pedal cycle. Electric bikes can cost anything up to £10,000+ but realistically the bulk of them start at about £800 and range up to around £6000. The extra technology in the motor and battery forces additional premiums over the cost of a normal bicycle. The positive is that as technology progresses and base prices lower, you will find you can pick up a reliable machine for a fairly modest sum. As with anything in this world you pay for what you get, and for eBikes this means paying more for quality, range and reliability. Of course don’t pay more for something you don’t need; it’s easy to get carried away your search. The eBike market is extremely competitive; if one is more expensive than another it’s normally for a reason. If an eBike was brought to market that was overpriced it would be spotted quickly and the manufacturer would find it hard to sell. Be prepared for your budget to fluctuate slightly, if one particular eBike is slightly more than your budget but realistically is going to serve a better job at doing what you want it to do then don’t rule it out. Sacrificing usability and function because of a budget could end up costing further down the line in repairs and replacement. Look around and compare eBikes at different price points before deciding on a final budget. Don’t rule anything out. Be flexible. Remember you get what you pay for, but don’t be sold on fancy functions for the sake of it. Equipment Equipment is important and it also comes back to your overall budget. You may have set a figure up in your mind for just for example say £2000, you by now may have seen the bike you are hoping to get. But factor in accessories such as helmets, gloves, protective clothing, bags, shoes etc. These things can add up fast! It’s also important to factor in components such as mudguards, lights, racks, lock etc. You may find if for example you require a commuting bike, some models may already come with bits like the mudguards, lights and rack fitted as standard. This is ideal, as the manufacturer has carefully selected the best components for the bike and the task in hand. They may often be much better than after-market components added at a later date, it could also be cheaper to buy a bike fitted with these parts. My advice would be to set two budgets, one for the bike itself and another for accessories, this way you are not sacrificing on either end. Obviously some things are a must for example a helmet. But remember some of the components you can buy or upgrade at a later date, allowing your budget to be more flexible at current. By doing this you avoid buying things you may not need and over time you will realise some of the essentials that you do want. Motor Types, Battery Size & Range I won’t delve too much into the different battery and motor types as this is going to be covered in another article; however it’s certainly something to look at when buying an electric bike. There are two main types of motor on the market: Hub drive and crank drive, and they work in different ways. Hub drive is a motor unit mounted in the front or back wheel. As the user pedals a control board applies power from the battery. This in turn will push the user from the back wheel or pull you along from the front wheel. The advantage of this system is that you run higher-powered motors to suit your riding style. You can generally swap out motors to work with different controllers and batteries, so it is quite versatile in its operation. Crank drive is where the motor is mounted directly in the frame and drives on the chain itself. This system is much more efficient as the user is effectively always in the perfect gear alongside the motor unit when pedalling forward and generally requires a smaller battery to operate. As the motor is mounted centrally on the bike it won’t cause the front or back end of the bike to become heavier. Another advantage is that it can perform better in slippery conditions, as there is less chance of wheel spin as the power is applied. There is less ‘surging’ and the torque is applied more evenly through the range. Your budget may become a large factor when considering which type of drive to go for. Crank driven bikes tend to be more expensive than the hub driven alternative, although there are newer crank drive motors coming to market all the time and I have seen some more budget crank drive bikes now become available. If reliability is the key; then maybe go with something that has been tried and tested on the market for a while. For me personally I only sell crank drive bikes, they are one of the most reliable systems on the market, In my opinion I prefer the way they feel when in use, it’s a much more natural drive with less surging and I believe they perform much better up even the steepest of hills. Your best bet is to try both systems and see for yourself, which one performs better for your requirements. Don’t forget to test the electric bike up a tough hill! As for batteries, this is probably the fastest advancing part of an eBike, with new battery technologies coming to market all the time. There are many types, the most popular being the lithium cells. These are lighter than the old Ni-cad batteries, and generally last for longer periods of time. Again this is another topic all together and will be explained in detail in another article. The bigger the capacity of the battery the more range it will hold. Be realistic about how many miles you will be covering, because as you go up the range the heavier and bulkier the battery can become. Remember, you as the rider are going to be lugging this extra weight around. Time and time again I speak to customers who want the ‘bigger battery’ because on paper the larger capacity is better. However when I ask – “Realistically how many miles are you doing?” It’s quite often not even 50% of the total batteries range. That said it’s always nice to have plenty left in the batteries range when out on a ride so you have the peace of mind you are not going to be left short. My advice would be: Don’t confuse yourself by reading up too much about all the different motor types and batteries, the main thing you want to look for is operation and range. Go and have a go on a few different styles, determine your range and go with what will suit you best. Test riding Now this is the fun part! It’s also the most important part of all. You must, I stress MUST go and try a few different eBikes before you make your decision. After all if you don’t try them you won’t know how they feel and operate. With so many different varieties out there try a few, not one or two, but a FEW to get a good comparison. If you don’t try several you could be missing out on the one that is perfect for you. When test riding: - Try the eBike in different gears and different levels of assist (if it has options), and in as many combinations as possible so you get a good feel for the bike. It’s no good riding up and down the pavement to reach a decision. Go up a sodding great hill, over bumps, get on and off a few times, pick it up, feel the weight, test the gears, brakes etc. Give it a good overall test to make sure it meets your expectations. Try one that is below your budget and another that is above your budget so you can see what you are getting for your money. You may find the cheaper one suffices your needs, or you may find the dearer one is going to support you better in its overall lifetime. This will also give you a chance to talk to dealers; you will learn much more this way than reading up yourself as the dealer does this day in day out. Every dealer is going to say their eBike is the best, but they should be able to guide you further and point out features you may not have noticed on paper. For this reason go to a couple of different dealers and determine in your own mind the eBike that is suitable for you. Support & back up Support and back-up is essential to your purchase. This also brings us back to visiting different dealers to gauge who you think is going to look after you in the long run. It’s no good buying a new eBike if further down the line you run into a problem and have no support. Each manufacturer guarantee differs; the main point is to purchase something that has some sort of guarantee in the event of a problem. You will often find separate guarantees for the electrical parts of the eBike, and the frame and components. These do vary but generally you’ll find a 2 year guarantee on the electrics, and 5 years or even a lifetime warranty on the frame etc. Make sure you read the small print: A manufacturer’s guarantee for “defects in materials” is totally different to a “no quibble guarantee”. Also please be aware that the battery could have a time span warranty alongside a charge cycle warranty. For example it could only be 6 months old but if it has covered more charge cycles than the warranty states it could not be accepted. Be wary of manufacturers offering very limited or short guarantees, this rings alarm bells that they themselves don’t have faith in the reliability of the product. Almost all guarantees are limited as, at the end of the day, an eBike is a moving part; bits will wear over time and the battery will eventually loose capacity. My advice would be to buy from somewhere you can go back to in the event of a problem, with a physical showroom you can personally visit rather than making numerous phone calls and messing about with packaging the bike up and having it delivered for return. Possibly look at places that can also service your bike to keep it up to scratch in the long term. Service and Maintenance - Obviously any eBike is going to need routine maintenance, however don’t be put off by the electrical part of this as it generally requires little maintenance. Many non-eBikers believe an electric bike is riddled with maintenance issues but this is simply not true. If you as the user take the basic steps to keep your bike running, it will not require much more than a normal bike. After all if you treat your eBike well it will treat you well in return. I will cover repair and maintenance in another article; however the basics for now are to keep the bike clean. Make sure all electrical contacts are corrosion free. It’s also worth having the whole bike serviced as and when it needs it and keeping a service record intact (This will help if you ever come to sell the eBike further down the line). Most dealers will provide a full set up on the bike, which is important, as the eBike needs to be set up correctly in the first place to function well. Some dealers also offer another free service once the eBike has bedded in. This is useful and well worth taking advantage of as it can take a few miles for new bolts to bed in, cables to stretch etc. By taking it back after the bedding in period you can have it all re-tightened, and the brakes and gears checked etc. This is also a good time to change that awfully uncomfortable saddle, position the bars slightly differently and make any other small changes to provide a more comfortable ride. Most motors these days are either sealed or not serviceable, therefore if it did go wrong it would be replaced rather than repaired, so very little maintenance here. It’s the same with the batteries; however you can take steps to extend the life of your battery. For example keeping it topped up, not leaving it to discharge for extended periods of time, not leaving it in the blazing hot sun for long periods and also not leaving it out in the freezing cold for many months if it is not being used. Most battery problems I come across are where people have neglected their batteries, or have left them for years and years before coming back to them expecting them to work as they did when new! Simply put, an eBike really should require no more maintenance than a normal push bike as long as you - the user treats it right. Making a purchase Now the exciting part (especially since you have probably spent more time reading articles like this than you’ll spend riding the thing)! You should have now tried lots of eBikes, read reviews, talked to others, had sleepless nights thinking about it etc. You now think you are ready to make a purchase! Go back to the bike you are hoping for, turn it upside down, look at it from every angle, take the battery in and out, see how it charges, ask any thing that may be hindering you, have one last go, make sure you are 100% happy with it. Then you are ready to hand over your hard earned pennies. Whatever eBike you get, I hope it suits your needs and performs well for you and it exceeds every expectation so ultimately you can be out and about riding it with a smile on your face. If you do own a normal pedal cycle, don’t forget about it! It will be all sad in the shed, so shake the dust off it and ride it every now and again; it will make you appreciate your eBike even more. I hope you found the article helpful in your quest. Here’s too many happy years eBiking. Why not read the Electric Bike Maintenance Guide? Also worth checking out the Electric Bike Running Costs Guide?
2014 is certainly an exciting year for Haibike in the UK, with the launch of their new xDuro NDURO Pro 26 eBike. We at e-bike shop, (the biggest selling Haibike dealer in the UK!) can’t wait to get our hands on this full suspension, enduro/free ride/downhill bike – which is coming into our Haibike dealership on UK shores in early Jan 2014. Below is a quick overview / review of the new 2014 Haibike xDuro NDURO Pro. After spending a weekend with the eBike in the flesh at the NEC Cycle Show a few weeks back I was overwhelmed with the positive response and comments the bike generated! I think the most popular word used in the comments was WOW OK this bike might be built with the alps in mind but I personally am a massive fan of the big travel "tackle anything" style. Its actually the only Bosch powered eBike in the world to rock this sort of specification and 180mm travel. Being an avid mountain biker myself, the first thing that came to mind was. This eBike is better spec'd than my existing freeride bike - costing me just over £5.5k to build and that's with no motor attached!! This new NDURO style bike fits in 2 places in the market. It definitely works for the serious mountain biker who wants to really put a bike through its paces and get back up the hill when he reaches the bottom. But the look and feel of the bike will also appeal to most guys looking for that ultimate 'Boys Toy'! The new Haibike NDURO PRO 2014 features the new style Bosch ebike drive system. With 180 mm travel and the Bosch performance motor, the NDURO turns your hometrails into a bike park! Up lifts are made redundant with the new XDURO NDURO PRO. This bike will pretty much handle anything you throw at it. Its perfect for the serious mountain biker from full on downhill trials to local bike parks. The spec of this bike is top end. You have Mavic Enduro wheels, Sram XX1 drive train and, of course, completely newly developed suspension of the Haibike Sprocket Equalizing System (SES). The bike also features a Fox's premium kashima coated forks and rear shock. Avid's X.0 brakes on big uprated rotors supply more than enough stopping power in any condition. Couple this with Haibike's newly developed frame geometry and you have an eBike you can really put through its paces. Its un-stoppable! With deposits already flowing in for these Gen 2 editions. We will have to keep a close eye on stock levels. With Haibike already currently in limited supply. The demand for even the current machines is incredible! Bosch have even announced there could be delay in production. Read the full specification of the 2014 Haibike xDuro NDURO PRO 26 If you would like further information or to place a deposit on the stock arriving please call us on 01252 279 279 (ask for Martin).
How much have I used the bike? I get out most weekends and the rides cover 10 to 25 miles. The terrain varies from steep climbs, long energy sapping climbs (so my buddies tell me who don't have a Haibike) and lots of flat boring stuff. A guess would be 500+ miles covered. Has it been reliable & have I made any upgrades? Yes and Yes. The bike has never let me down and battery usage is excellent - I have never used more than 2 bars of battery power. Upgrades - I had the dongle fitted but found the assist was not my issue it was the size of front sprocket, going flat out in 10th gear would see 24.6 mph. Martin fitted a new larger cog and it's really improved the bike. Without dongle about 17mph and with dongle about 28mph, the pay off is climbing is compromised (not really an issue as the motor takes care of steep hills), as a result dongle is disconnected most of the time. Issues with Dongle, A few minor, battery life is shorter but not enough to cause concern, if used on the road the bike is illegal (but excellent fun keeping up with cars in a 30mph limit, not that I have done this of course), the speed on dash is incorrect after 10mph (x2 required) i.e. speedo reads 7.4mph but actual speed is 14.8mph also the trip distance seems to suffer similar issues (not got to the bottom of this one yet but the Iphone app. Runtastic shown about 4 miles more than the bike trip recorder, without dongle distance is about same). Is there anything I don't like? I am used to a slightly slower turn and I am still getting used to the steering, its quite fast, I slow down for turns more I did on my other bikes, when I exceed 17mph (no dongle) it feels like the brakes have been applied, my cycle buddies occasionally moan because they can't keep up, having to lift it over fences/gates etc (its not the lightest of bikes (but not that heavy for an E-bike). What I do like? Everything about the bike (except bits above), it's the best bike I have owned, I can't wait until my next ride, climbing that steep hill at 16mph is amazing, the 20mph head wind that we all hate is a breeze (Petes Pun), friends moaning they can't keep up, receiving comments like “fraud”, “cheat”, “lazy” and so on which I find highly amusing. My health/strength/fitness has improved - when I got the bike it was on Turbo setting most of the time now its ECO or off and only changes for hills or the last few miles on the way home, so for all that say E-bikes don't help with fitness I would have to disagree. Other cyclist want to talk about your bike and when they have a ride the smile on their face says it all.. Summary I love my Haibike and would buy another one without hesitation. I ride for fun, I like to explore and I have been places I would never have found without a bike, my Haibike has been a real bonus by having a bit of assistance just when you need it. I used to do Green lanes on motorbikes and quads but these lanes are slowly disappearing, luckily no issues for cycles yet. I have a kit car and this year have used it 5 times, why would I want to be in a car when I can be out with friends cycling (car for sale). Final word Whilst writing this I wondered if what I had written was true so I decided to go for a short ride on my old Bike (A Cube value 3k approx, not an E-bike), I love my Cube and have never had any issues with it but within the first 10 minutes I was wishing I was on my Haibike, everything about the Haibike feels better, I turned a corner as was greeted with a gentle breeze Doh – No one to help no motor. “cheat”, “lazy”, “Fraud” maybe but who cares, I'm out there doing it not sitting indoors thinking about doing it. Southdowns way planned for next year 100 miles est climb is 10,000ft (over many hills), can't wait... Read Original customer review after purchase 6 months ago. View the full specification of the Haibike xDuro RX 2014 model
Past Experience / Why choose the Haibike FS SL? I have been an avid mountain biker for the past circa 24 years and love the freedom and laugh with mates that mountain biking brings.However for the last 21 years I've also been living with a degenerative heart condition which at times has really been a pain in the proverbial when I've been wanting to be out riding. Thankfully though continue riding I did up until May last year when the condition threw another spanner in the works and I decided MTBing was just too much of a strain on the heart, sold my bikes and became and! Then I thought, "what I need is a pedelec MTB, I wonder if they exist...". That led me here, then there, then all over. I looked at so many promising bikes but then became aware that there were many companies offering "MTBs" that quite frankly would collapse in the rocky environments of Welsh mountains, Lakes, Gisburn etc. Ghost produce a good looking hub powered bike but, a) they aren't importing it and b) research pointed in the directionthat a crank drive system was best suited to MTBing with the quick changes required in torque necessary for MTBing and better weight distribution. That kind of narrowed my personal choice down to the Haibike range, KTM Macina Race or Scott E-Aspect. Now one thing that made the decision easier amongst the three was the way Haibike have swung the motor up and within the frame out of harms way. The effective bottom bracket height of an underslung bosch motor is frankly a failure waiting to happen on a purpose built MTB that will be ridden on harsh terrain. Having lost a couple of teeth from the big ring on rock steps on my Cannondale the last time I was at Gisburn this was a non-starter for me. So that left me with the Haibike range.After trialling a RC29 at Alton I knew the bosch system could keep me in the saddle for another few years at least As I only ride for pleasure and purely MTBing, I ruled out the RC29 as it is a very stiff frame (but beautifully manufactured) and settled for the FS SL which isn't a million miles away from the suspension set up I had on my Giant Anthem. The bikes are, as any MTBer will know, excellent quality bikes that have been well adapted to incorporate a drive system. Why is it always the Germans?! If by some miracle I was cured overnight, I'd be happy to just strip all the electrics off the bike and ride it as is. Impression after first ride.. Having not been on a bike for nearly a year due to my pesky, badly behaved heart, I very optimistically thought as we are heading into spring I'd leave the mud tyres in the shed and throw on my maxxis advantage and high roller tyres on the bike as they are a personal favourite combination of mine. What wetness was on the trails will be hardened up with a bit of frost so they'll be fine was my thinking....! Err no! Thanks to the crank drive system, swapping the tyres was a breeze and even easier than a quick release with the bolt through axles. Another bonus point for me when deciding which bike to buy. Anyone who mountain bikes will know a puncture can strike at any time so I didn't want my humour tested with having to change a tube (or more realistically mend a puncture) on a hub motor system in the middle of a muddy trail, in a gale, miles from home and with numb hands. So early morning I headed out with friends and the nice mild weather meant no frost, instead of firm frosty ground I found mud and floods of biblical proportions. Now I've been riding these trails for a couple of decades and I simply can't remember a time they were as wet as they are now, just mental. Now I start to think "you idiot, whydid you put these fast rolling summer tyres on?!!" To help the situation a bit I dropped the pressures down to around 30-35psi which gave them some hope of gripping a bit. The first section of really deep mud I came to was unrideable due to the damage from horses and sheer depth of the gloop. I knew this from experience and my mates attempt to get through underlined that when he ground to a halt, hopped off and sank almost to mid shin depth!! I however have a new toy and I was intent on using it. I did however have in my head that even with turbo setting I wouldn't make it, but I was curious to see if I could get as far as my mate. Oh how my faith was put in it's place! The bike just kept surging forward despite the depth of the mud and even with my terrible tyre choice the bosch system seemed to smoothly regulate the torque so the wheel hardly span up and the power just came in a very smooth yet very powerful manner. I emerged the other side with a grin that could be seen from space and to see my friends jaw sat in the mud. Never in my wildest dreams did I think I would actually get through! Now feeling enthused and very confident in the bike (after about 5 miles or so), I proceeded to start to aim for all the deep stuff to test it time and time again. Every time the same, just complimenting my input enough to give that extra boost to see the job done. I then realised that both Turbo and Sport levels are just incredible, so to ease off a bit, as I had no idea what range I would get, I started to ride mostly in Tour mode with the occasional Sport enabled for a really bad section. Tour mode dealt with most things very comfortably. I did however try to avoid flood water as best as possible but I did end up committed in a section that got to crank bolt depth and required rocking of the cranks to keep going through. I glanced down and realised if my motor was under slung it would have been completely submerged! Thankfully that was as deep as I got and managed to avoid the rest of the really deep water. There is a long section through a field that leads to a woodland on the route we took. There is a section where cows congregate under the trees when its wet to shelter and the path runs right through this section. In conditions like yesterday it's hard to walk through let alone ride. If you were somehow able to muster the sheer force to ride through it you'd be maxxed out on the heart rate by the time you got to the woods, I know I've got the T shirt! My friends tried and failed, I would have also failed on my Giant Anthem. Yesterday I progressively made my way through, with some tactful track standing in the worst bits just to stay upright, got to the gate, checked my heart rate monitor and it said 104 Whilst waiting for my friends to catch up, I watched the rate drop down nicely into the 80's which showed how my body, and most importantly my heart, hadn't been placed under prolonged stress. This is two weeks after my heart surgery and a year without cardiovascular exercise too so I was over the moon that the bike was doing everything I had hoped it would do but was doing it so much better than I thought it ever feasibly could. To summarise we did a wee bit over 10 miles in the foulest ground conditions and with easily less than a mile of tarmac. As it was my first ride I was messing about with modes, playing with Turbo and Sport until I got a feel for the bike. In no means was I riding sympathetically regards the battery charge longevity. I returned with 3 lights remaining of the five on the battery. My friends said the 10 miler felt physically like a 30 mile ride. Haibike have produced an excellent mountain bike that would stand it's ground easily on the trail amongst many "normal" mountain bikes costing significantly more. It rides like a normal bike (a very good one), weight distribution is very good and at no time did the bike feel unsettled. Coming from an 11kg bike to a 21kg bike I had hang ups about how it would ride in the rough. I needn't have bothered as once moving there is little perceivable difference. The suspension is great, the Rockshox Recon performed much better than anticipated and was nice and stiff (I'm a long time Fox fork fan), the Fox CTD rear shock was as you'd expect from Fox and flawless. SLX does exactly as it says on the tin and Haibike finishing kit of bars, grips, stem and seatpost are all good quality. After test riding though I did put their saddle out to pasture as it's probably the worst I've tried! Don't know what they were thinking with that one. Saddles are a very personal thing but there was no way that was staying on mine so my Cannondale saddle was put back into service. As for the Bosch system all I can say really is wow. It performed way beyond my expectations and I simply just raise my hat to the Bosch engineers (need a clappy hand icon!) So to summarise I'm over the moon. Only mechanical failure would dampen my new found lust but only time will tell regards that..... I was so glum that it appeared my MTBing days were over and the disease had wrecked my chances of continuing the one thing I have loved for many years. I felt an electric MTB would at best be a compromise but hey ho, if it meant I was still out, enjoying time with friends, then that's the way I would go. Instead I've found the bike has offered a breath of fresh air and excitement that a "normal" MTB just can't do. It's like starting the sport all over again and that is a very exciting prospect. So good points - all of the above and the grin that comes with it. Bad points - saddle and not been able to rotate the chain backwards with the cranks to use the chain scrubber after the ride. Oh and the fact that your friends now want to steal your bike! Many thanks to our customer for this review. View the full specification of the Haibike xDuro FS SL Electric Mountain Bike
I thought I would write a little more in depth about whats new for the 2014 Bosch system, this should save half my day on the phone. So to start off, everyone knows the latest Bosch motor has made some significant changes to the motor design. On the outside its completely different in shape, most of you will have seen the tiny front sprocket and wondered why it’s so small? Well... Bosch have standardised the way motors are mounted, so for one it’s easier for manufacturers to integrate the motor into their frame design. By changing the motor shape and using a small sprocket it gives a much higher ground clearance. (Previously not being a problem for Haibike who sent their engineers to work and patented the idea of inverting the motor up into the frame so its tucked out the way and give a much higher ground clearance anyway). At this point your probably thinking - How am I supposed to pedal that cycle around with such a small sprocket on the front? Well the drive is actually geared inside out. Basically as you turn the cranks (pedals) it turns a gear inside the motor, which in turn is geared back to the small sprocket on the outside. So in fact with 1 full pedal revolution the small sprocket on the outside will turn 2.5 times.This also allows the sensors within the new motor to measure gear changes much more precisely, therefore as you change gear the motor can detect this and actually reduces the torque applied at exactly the right time so that it ensures a smooth gear changes and reduces pressure on both the motor and chain significantly. Ultimately leading to a more durable system.The small sprocket also means that it’s much harder for the chain to come off at any point. Which is a big plus point where manufacturers are continuing to use ever-expanding ratios of gears at the back. On a side note – It also means less grubby trouser ends as the chain will be more tucked out the way running on the tiny sprocket! What else is new? The new motor's internal sensors (power, cadence & speed) process 1000 readings per second to make the ride as smooth and efficient as possible also has a new more modern 32-bit processor to handle all of these readings.The rest of the system has only taken slight changes, for example the colour of both the active line and performance line are different. The Intuvia screen size has been increased slightly with easier to see readings.The battery has been slimmed down a little into a more clean line design and is still offered in the current 300wh and 400wh options.So the new system is neater, smaller & a little lighter. The performance line can now also assist up to 275% in Turbo mode as opposed to 250%. The drive can put out up to 60Nm of torque through a derralier system but is limited to 50Nm of torque through any hub gear.The motor is the same 250w power to comply with current EU legislation.The new system will be less versatile to "tinker'ers" as the sprocket will be less easy to swap out to change the gearing for people who want to up the gearing / speed. But as far as I can see it should still be compatible with the 'tuning dongle'.This new motor design will run alongside the current 'Active line' system. Manufacturers will continue to use both systems for future ranges. Continued support? Bosch are continuing to offer firmware updates / improvement through the USB port for both Active line and the newer system. Being a Bosch UK dealer we have all the official Bosch diagnostic tools do perform these actions for previous customers in-store. Retrofit to my existing Bosch eBike? Finally before I get more phone calls - NO the complete Bosch system is not available as any sort of add on kit. It will only come with new complete ebikes.AND no I cannot take cash as a ‘back hander’ to order a motor through Bosch for anyone to use. The only way we can supply a new motor is with the old one in my hands in (in the event of a warranty case) Read how Haibike xDuro 2014 models overcome the bad chain line with the new Bosch eBike motor.View the latest Electric Bikes with the new style Bosch motor.
Time for another of my structured explanations of how something technical works. Now before you 'Switch Off'.. This is not a copy and paste explanation, this is written in my own words (and time) for others to learn how the new S.E.S (Sprocket Equalizing System) system works on the latest Bosch motor. Although nice for people to know about this it also cuts down the amount of time I spend on the phone every day explaining to people various factors; so well worth my time writing it! Before you start make sure you have read my other post explaining the new 2014 Bosch System in Detail. This explains the changes the newer Bosch motor has undertaken. The position of the small sprocket and the way the newer motor has to be mounted means that the bikes swing arm has to be much longer to situate the motor on a full suspension bike. Ultimately making the bikes wheel base a lot longer. This is because the pivot point of the swing arm has to be behind the motor. See image below Now some of you may say what's the difference if the swing arm is just a few inches longer?... Well it makes a massive difference to the bikes agility and how well it performs over terrain. A short wheel base is very important.. Its the difference in handling between an sports car and a family estate!. By bringing the swing arm pivot in, the design looks like this See image below: Now this creates another problem. Note in the picture difference in position between the highlighted 'R' & 'S'. The 'S' is where the chain would normally run from. The 'R' Is where the rear end pivots from. This not only creates chain line problems as their is such a big drop in chain line when using the massive sprocket ratio's at the back. But as the bike travels over bumps in terrain the whole rear end will move up and down with the suspension which causes the chain to move with it. This has major implications on the gear system. The chain will move all about the place causing loss of energy and be very noisy / rattly. This is not welcomed on mountain bikes at all. So to overcome this Haibike have created the S.E.S (Sprocket Equalizing System). Its basically a small jockey pulley wheel mounted exactly on the pivot point See image below: Not only does this pull the chain up to work perfectly with the rear swing arm, but it holds the chain in exactly the right place and keeps it under tension, ultimately leading to more engagement and no chance at all of the chain coming off. It also brings the chain up to allow smooth changing of the rear cassette even on the biggest sprocket. The chain length also stays the same whether the suspension is pushed all the way down or in its fully extended position. Perfect! So here you can see the final design before and after See image below: Now that's pretty much job done... But Haibike doesn't stop there. To finish it all off they stick on a really neat chainguide over the S.E.S pulley wheel. This neatens everything up, it also makes sure that its almost impossible for the chain to come off in pretty much any condition! See image below Haibike have always been ahead from the start with their previous inverted motor design. This again proves that Haibike is way ahead of the game when incorporating the Bosch motor into a MTB frame. Haibike currently holds a Patent Pending Approval over the new design. As the UK's largest Haibike dealer we are always the first in the country to receive these models into stock. Although not currently advertising these models we are taking deposits and expecting the first drop in limited numbers in early Jan 2014. Contact me should you require any further details. P.S - This is the only brand of ebike I saw at the NEC this weekend that have finished off the motor integration by mounting a bash plate under the motor so it all sits snugly. Not only does this plate protect the motor further from debris but in my mind it looks unfinished without it! View the Latest Haibike Gen2 Electric Bikes with S.E.S Read more about the new Bosch eBike motor system for 2014
Well its the latest contender in the crank drive market. Although new; it has already proved itself as a ‘Bullet Proof’ reliable system. About Bosch Bosch electric bike drive system came up to the market unexpectedly. It has been launched at the Euro Bike show in September 2010 where not only Bosch launched their product but already couple of major bike manufacturers introduced their first ebikes being powered by Bosch E-bike drive. In the first row the cult bicycle brands such as Cannondale and Scott showed their first ebikes. What’s more important both powered by the Bosch electric drive system.Bosch e-bike drive offers a complete solution for bicycles. It provides the motor, battery, control unit which is built in the motor and the sophisticated control panel on the handlebar. Bosch Intuvia Control Unit (HMI) This on-board computer is a real eye-catcher. Together with its separate control unit on the handle, Intuvia is a smart, multifunctional control system that is safe and easy to use because you do not have to take your hand off the handlebar. Its superbly easy-to-read display also serves as a removable data storage device.Eco: At 100 % personal pedal power, the motor contributes an additional 30 %Tour: At 100 % personal pedal power, the motor contributes an additional 100 %Sport: At 100 % personal pedal power, the motor contributes an additional 180 %Turbo: At 100 % personal pedal power, the motor contributes an additional 250 % Bosch PowerPack 300 & 400 Bosch pioneered the use of lithium-ion technology in power tools, and has successfully marketed tools featuring this technology for many years now. The same tried and tested technology is now available in our PowerPack, which features high energy density and Bosch Crank Drive Unit Extends an e-bike’s range. For the rest, the PowerPack is undemanding – not just in terms of the space it needs, but also in terms of weight and charging time: the power charger can charge the battery completely in just two-and-a-half hours. The Bosch eBike System’s powerful Drive Unit signals the arrival of technological expertise in the two-wheel world. The high- performance drive not only adapts to the rider’s needs quietly – it also does so extremely quickly. After accelerating to 25 kph in just a few seconds, the motor automatically shuts off. This means that an e-bike equipped with this system still qualifies as a bicycle under German law. In Germany, therefore, it can be ridden on bike paths, and there is no legal requirement for license plates or insurance. To adapt perfectly..to the strain on the cyclist, it has to determine how much auxiliary power is needed. For this purpose, three sensors measure speed, pedaling frequency, and torque. These allow the optimum amount of mechanical support to be computed. For example, if a head wind comes up, the e-biker must pedal harder to maintain the same speed. The pedal-force sensor reacts to this, and extra power from the motor makes up for the additional strain. This technology wastes no power, making the Bosch Drive Unit extremely efficient. Elegantly designed, the drive can be integrated without any need to modify the wheelbase extensively. Since the Bosch design positions the Drive Unit in the middle of the frame, the bike has a low center of gravity, and thus more stability. View our Bosch powered eBike range here to choose your next ride.
The XDURO line combines for the first time the physical athleticism of a mountain bike with the dynamics of an off-road vehicle. The result: a completely different and new bike-riding experience with unprecedented fun. Uncompromising Haibike XDUROs were designed for a bike-rider who wants no limits: no overheating motors during long uphill sections, experience no drive failures, have no over-strained running gear or contain any weak components. Haibike XDUROs spells pure bike-riding pleasure! You are the rider Haibike XDUROs are designed with your own physical strength in mind. It is an essential part of the riding experience. Whether pushing your limits a little bit, or being in a relaxed cruising mode - the choice is yours. Our Pedelec concept (250W group) gives you electrical support only while you are actively pedaling. All Haibike XDUROs are therefore considered regular bicycles and may be driven on dirt roads as well as through forests. You get what you see The design of the XDURO is a promise that its technical data lives up. Neither a big MTB nor a smaller-sized motocross, it is, in fact, a thought-out and well-proportioned performance eBike. The design in the way it integrates the components is unparalleled and is likely to set new standards for bike design as well as for the whole new category. Made in Germany We are also in the production of our XDURO bikes as straightforward as in the development. All bikes are assembled at our headquarters in the Bavarian town Schweinfurt, using the extremely durable Bosch motor bike components, also a German make. We create eBikes of the highest quality! Pioneer Only two years after its initial unveiling, the XDUROS are in a class of their own when it comes to performance eBikes. The demand far exceeds our production capacities. But we pledge to retain our position as pioneers without skimping on standards. The core piece The Hydroformed Aluminium Frame - As with any bicycle or motorcycle, the frame is at the core of the entire vehicle. Maximum stability combined with minimum weight, high torsional strength at the highest possible flexibility for vibration absorption – these are the keywords.But our frames do more: they enable the dynamically - and also technically - useful integration of motor components as well as the absorption of the additional weight of about 7 kilograms (15.4 lb.). When we developed the design, we therefore made sure that the drive components are not just visually pleasingly arranged but also mechanically. The framework was built around the design system. The Haibike Reverse Angle Motor Concept (RAM) As for motor integration, we literally turned the world upside down: as the world's first manufacturer, we rotated the Bosch motor which is normally "hanging"underneath the bottom bracket, by 150 degrees towards the inside of the frame. This created maximum protection for the motor and full ground clearance and also rang in a new era from a visual design standpoint: never before was a drive in a large series eMTB so seamlessly integrated as with our XDURO line. This is a big selling point when comparing to other eBike manufacturers, many people have suggested the underslung motor to be very vulnerable on a mountain bike. Haibike have solved this!Haibike RAM Interface We made the Habike RAM interface, the interface between the motor and frame, our centerpiece.It is just too good to be hidden away. This component unites several functions. It contains the Bosch motor and protects it as integral part of the frame, whose technical gravity force center it is. It also provides protection for the internal cables and hoses. And it integrates the pivot for the rear triangle. Pure Dynamics, The Suspension Concept Haibike XDUROS are driving machines in the best possible sense of the word. The center of mass, as with good sports cars, is as central and integrated as possible.Even more important: It is decoupled from the suspension. For truly agile, driving dynamics, we only use bracket motors. Pure Performance, the Bosch System While developing the XDURO line we realized that the uncompromising quality we had in mind could only be carried out by including a powerful bracket motor. We define performance not just by high wattage, but by powerful torque agility, with enough power reserves for long uphill sections, high reliability, and energy efficiency. All this is provided by the Bosch drive system that we want to present you somehow more accurate. The Energy Supplier, The Battery Pack Due to its high energy efficiency of the Bosch system, the comparatively compact 288Wh battery capacity is sufficient to support ranges of up to 145 km or 90 miles (specifications by Bosch)! The advantage is the battery’s light weight of only 2.5 kg (5.5 lb.) which reduces the overall weight and makes handling so much easier. The battery pack is mounted shockproof on the down tube. It can be locked and, once removed, recharges in just 2.5 hours, due to the quick charger which it comes with. The Core, The Drive Unit The compact bracket motor provides 250W continuous rated power for short periods even up to 500W peak power. For a performance-oriented use, this, in addition to its high reliability, is particularly interesting because of its high torque (50 Nm) and its energy efficiency. We developed a twisted mounting position for it which also protects the drive against damage from below. The Control Unit, The HMI-Display The detachable display is both bicycle computer and control centre of the Bosch system. You can choose from the following functions:- 4 support levels (Eco, Tour, Sport, Turbo & OFF)- current, average and maximum speed- day trip & total distance- clock & timer- remaining kilometresParticularly interesting is the new shift recommendation which automatically indicates when shifting would be useful for a efficient driving. On the new remote control you can easily switch all display functions and driving modes without taking your hand off the handlebar. The Ultimate Ski Jump Test Talk is cheap. Therefore, we developed a special test to show the extreme uphill performance of the Haibike XDURO by driving a ski jump hill uphill! The driver and his XDURO had to overcome a massive 38 degrees gradient angle (which translates into an ascent of about 80 percent), without any external support and secured with a safety rope only. But see for yourself! View the complete Haibike electric bike range
I know some of you have already been asking me about the new 2014/15 Bosch kit, so here is a glance at some more details.The current motor will follow through to next year and run alongside the new motor design. Its likely the new motor will only be mounted on higher end models and there will probably be a decent price tag alongside these bikes.The current motor will still be the most popular choice for manufacturers. Down to lead times and cost at present. Its likely the new motor will be a more popular choice on 2015 models which we are a long way off yet.There will be 2 classes of motor available - the Performance Line & Active LineThe Performance line will offer assistance levels up to 275% with the active line offering a more subtle 225%. New Performance Line With the Performance Line, a drive system exists today for all who have recognised ebikes as the most modern form of transportation: for fast riders, for the physically fit, for commuters and for anyone who likes to ride dynamically. In short, for anyone who has no time to lose or who wants to transcend new athletic limits. Whether with Cruise (25 km/h) or Speed (45 km/h), the Performance Line brings a mass of energy and momentum to the street, to the dirt road, to the pass, to the single trail. The powerful drive system is both impulsive and controllable. With the highest precision, its performance is combined with that of the ebiker, generating sporty support that dominates every terrain and every gear. From flat to steep. From moderate to full power. The inner values are complemented by an equally impressive exterior. Design and ergonomics combine a high level of aesthetics and usability. Drive Unit The difference is the technology behind the new modern anthracite-coloured design of the components. With 1000 sensor readings per second, the Drive Units Performance Cruise (25 km/h) and Speed (45 km/h) continuously calculate the actual and target speed of the journey. The drive thus transmits force that is perfectly matched to the ebiker. The optimal balance of performance and range is also a matter of pure enjoyment. Intuvia Display Unit In a new design to match the lines, the cycle computer Intuvia is something to be seen: in the colours of anthracite in the Performance Line and platinum in the Active Line. With Intuvia Performance and Intuvia Active, high-precision distance measurements are also possible. The ebiker himself can make fine adjustments to the wheel circumference at the touch of a button. A USB port allows you to charge external hardware such as smartphones and MP3 players. Both Performance and Active line's offer the ability of switching between the five riding modes plus walk assistance and calling up information such as speed, charging state, distance and much more could not be easier.Even when removed from the ebike, Intuvia remains a useful information tool that makes it possible for you to retrieve all your tour data. Power Pack The PowerPacks 300 and PowerPacks 400 are the batteries with unparalleled energy density. They are now even easier to install and remove, and they also support charging directly on the bike. A special charging socket with a protective cover provides maximum safety during charging. Charger Together with its cable, the Charger weighs less than 800 grams. The improved charging plug and a practical hook-and-loop strip for cable sorting simplify handling. The new battery charging device is designed without air vents, which prevents contamination and makes it more robust. Range Estimations (In Km/h) This kit looks exciting, offering assistance levels up to 275%.. We will probably look at getting this kit onto the bikes in 66 months or so once the system is a little tried and tested and any teething problems refined out. Like I said above the current (tried and tested) Bosch kit will continue to be used with many ebikes and will run alongside the new kit rather than be replaced. View our Bosch powered Electric Bikes
Just come to fix the famous knocking noise / grinding on a Bosch motor this morning. I am used to working on nice clean motor internals with the inverted mounted Bosch drives.Couldn't believe what I found when I opened this one up.. I understand for town / commuter / trekking bikes the under-swung motor doesn't matter too much about being so close to the tarmac, but I think on off-road machines shouldn't be configured like this and is asking for trouble. The pictures are of the inside of the motor cover, but some of this had made its way into the actual motor gearing. It was a bit of a mess in there with dirt and grit. Makes me wonder how the motor could wear far more quickly in such conditions.The purpose of this post it not to slate under swung motors in anyway - BUT to make people aware that if you are using an under swung motor for mountain biking, its probably worth having the motor cleaned out regularly to avoid any decay of the motor and therefore ensure a good long term e-MTB'ng experience. I normally work on Haibikes with the motor inverted up out the way. As they are mounted above the frame not only does it look neater and give more ground clearance but it is out of the firing line of all the muck that gets chucked up by the front wheel. Haibike have patented this design so no other manufacturers can mount the motor up in this way. See image above. Read more about how Haibike mount the Bosch electric bike motorView Haibike Electric Bikes that have the motor inverted
"I would like to offer my experience with Crank cycles Alton branch (e-bikeshop.co.uk) and the Haibike FX RX pro, I will separate the review for ease of reading, I would also like to make it clear that I am not linked to either Crank cycles or Haibike, just a customer, this review reflects my opinion and relates to the first few days of ownership. A little about me I am middle aged if I manage to live until I am 108, weight is about 13st, I have owned an A2B Metro electric bike and my current mountain bike is a Cube Stereo, I wanted a full suspension Ebike to keep up with friends and do longer cycle rides. About the dealer I came across Crank cycles by accident while looking for a quality Mountain Ebike, I had never heard of Haibike or Crank cycles (I will refer to Crank Cycles of Alton as Crank from here on) but found Crank on an internet search, I contacted them and they arranged for Martin Brown (the Ebike expert) and a Director of Crank to contact me, which he did and gave me details of the Haibike range. He seemed to have a great deal of knowledge. He suggested we meet and he would take me through the range with a massive BUT, this being there may not be any available for some time (was this sales talk to make me buy, not at all, it seems everyone wants a Haibike and they don't make enough), being cautious I would not place an order (pay a deposit) until I had seen and touched the bike, the cost would be somewhere between £2700 and £4600 depending on the model, about a month passed and I decided it was time to Nag Martin, he has a list of people interested in the bikes and was working through it, my timing was spot on there were a few available (the £4600 FX RX pro) so I made an appointment to view. Decided to visit and see what's what I had decided that this was too much money but would go anyway, I was greeted by Martin, he then wheeled the bike out and OMG it looked amazing, I knew this was going to be a difficult decision, I really wanted it. I would also like to say that I took my son along to talk some sense (stop me buying the bike), Martin took me through the bike from top to bottom and I am pleased to say he really does know his stuff, after about 45 minutes I decided to get a coffee and discuss the bike with my son, this was going to be a hard decision as my son had already said the bike was awesome. For reasons that only I can justify, I decided to buy the bike, the Crank engineer (sorry I don't know your name) then spent 15 minutes with me setting the suspension, we discussed the servicing and off I went, I had a quick ride around the car park (this was going to be a great bike). I left Crank Cycles of Alton feeling very pleased with the way I had been looked after and I was given all the relevant information, I had all my questions answered, Thanks Martin. The bike and first ride Why do batteries take so long to charge when you are waiting to get out and play? The bike looks great, components are the highest quality, has a James Bond ejector saddle (more on that later), inverted Bosch Motor, clear display/dash, 3 manuals, a charger and 2 keys and did I say it looks bloody brilliant. The battery has 5 green LED’s each show approx. 20% of total charge, from empty to full charge is an estimated 3.5 hours, Crank had partially charged the battery and only one LED was unlit, it took about 1.5 hours to fully charge. The charger connector is a good solid fit and the battery has a handy soft handle for transporting to and from the bike, fitting the battery is an easy process (keys not needed), removing the battery was a little fiddly as it involves unlocking with the keys and pushing the battery away from the frame at the top, I’m sure this will get easier with practice. Attach the display/dash and the bike is ready to roll (this is also a security device as bike cannot be used as an Ebike without it attached), off I go for very short trip around the block, oops forgot to turn on the motor (as simple as touching the on/off button on the dash), first minor glitch, if moving when you turn it on the display will error and request that pedals are not rotating (or something like that), I stopped the bike, turned it off then on and set the mode to ECO (the are 4 modes ECO min assistance to Turbo max assist). I pedalled down the seafront 16 mph this seems too easy, turned inland to head back and it got harder, 25 mph of head wind would do that, this seems hard work I thought maybe its broken! I decide to set the assist mode to OFF (no assist) as a comparison and check that it was actually working, as soon as I select off I thought I had hit an invisible wall, best turn it on again, the drive systems work perfectly, you feel like your are doing all the work but the motor is an invisible buddy there just in case, or 10 invisible buddies if you feel lazy or tired. I have to mention the James Bond Ejector Saddle what a useless gimmick was my initial thought but then I used it, I would like to change that last comment to “what a fantastic addition”, with my regular bike I am always stopping and adjusting my ride height only by half a cm or so, not with this I just release the button on the handlebars and lift myself or put more weight on the saddle, it’s adjusted, it’s also really helpful if in traffic/traffic lights, a word of warning if the seat is fully down and you are standing a press of the little button may make your eyes water... To sum up My initial 400m round the block ended in a 1.5 mile ride, I didn't want to get off, a proper ride planned for the next day. Day 2, a 14 mile ride from the seafront to Emsworth, comprising tarmac, compressed gravel, the beach (compressed stones, loose shingle and lots of sea weed) and tight woodland trails with nettles and brambles both sides at hand height a little bit wider than the handlebars. Bike set on ECO mode and an initial cruise speed of about 16 mph for tarmac and cycle trail, beach again no problem the bike seems to find grip from somewhere although the speed was reduced to about 10 mph (by choice). The woodland path is where I found a minor issue, the route we wanted to take has a horrible gate and the only way to get a bike through is to lift it over, that was not going to happen with a 20+kg bike so we chose the other path, here again I was pleasantly surprised, the motor really assisted me in the tight muddy path, it only caught me out once when I came to a tight turn and didn't realise I was going a little too fast to make it, not a problem I can try the brakes, yep they work. The next test came on the return leg of the cycle trail, the wind was now about 20-25 mph (again) against us, that's not a problem I will let the motor do a little more work and it did “this is easy”, my son was behind on my Cube and keeping up or so I thought, my average speed was about 15 mph he was working as hard as he could to keep up “he’s loads younger than me so I’ll let him struggle a bit”, when he did catch up he told me he could not maintain the pace, we discovered another bonus of the Haibike, I would lead and keep speed to about 12 mph, he would keep very close behind and also have an enjoyable ride as I had blocked the wind and he could use the dead zone right behind me. An excellent ride the Haibike did everything with ease, the remaining range when we got home still showed 90 miles, one LED was out on the battery, the ride was comfortable, the riding position was just right for me, I will have to re-arrange the brakes but I would do that with any bike. My next ride will have some serious hills.... Summary / Comparison Am I pleased with the Haibike – absolutely ! Was it worth £4600 – probably not for my riding level but the bike and components excluding the Electrics are worth £3500+ and my Cube was £3300 and that was 2.5 years ago Should I have purchased a lower model – I have not seen the lower models, but if my budget was £3000 I don't think I would be disappointed, however me being me, I would have regretted not getting the best. How does it compare with my A2B Metro – the A2B was a moped or city bike it could not handle the cycle trail, it was a lazy way to ride as you never needed to pedal (just like a moped), it was very comfortable but felt it may break if you were unkind to it, the Haibike feels like you can throw anything at it and it will want more, they are designed for completely different uses and the Haibike is double the price but for me wins hands down. Surely an Ebike is cheating – Not at all, I had an enjoyable 14 mile ride my legs felt like jelly when I got home, I plan to use minimal assist when I ride but I know there is an option for more assist if required, a 50 mile ride is a possibility for me now and I know my fitness will improve. Crank Cycles of Alton – Crank have two shops but I have only visited the Alton branch so unable to comment on the Petersfield branch, I would recommend them to anyone (they also sell cycle trials bikes which is something my son used to do so I’m sure he will be returning). Weight – yes its heavy not as heavy as some and not noticeable when riding, if however you plan to carry or a bike rack with 2 or 3 other bikes check the rack can take the extra weight. Any Issues? One very minor ones, wish it had more gears, but if it had more I would still wish it had more, it’s quite heavy when putting in the back of cars/on racks etc, very expensive to insure, don't leave it unattended." View the latest Haibike FS RX Pro Electric Bike